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How Do We Make Waterproof Clothing?

Author: Sophie Jin

Editors: Eason Gao, Justin Tai

Artist: Helen Gong


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If you’ve ever worn a rain jacket, gone skiing, or walked through puddles without getting your feet wet, you’re probably familiar with waterproof clothing. But have you ever wondered how they’re made? The process involves using different types of materials, multiple layers of fabric, and special techniques to ensure that you stay warm and dry.

There are two main goals of all waterproof clothing: To block precipitation and to allow perspiration vapor to escape. These functions ensure that your clothing and your skin stay dry in different weather conditions, and also helps to maintain a comfortable body temperature. In order to meet these goals, a specific type of material called waterproof breathable fabric is used, which is commonly used in outdoor clothing such as hiking gear or ski pants.

But what exactly makes clothing waterproof? The special fabric used is able to resist the penetration of water through its customized layers, each carrying special properties and purposes. One of the key factors to achieve this is the DWR (Durable Water Repellent) finish, which is a treatment applied to the fabric’s outer shell that prevents water from saturating the exterior. It does so by decreasing the surface tension of water droplets, allowing precipitation to roll off the fabric instead of soaking into it. Because DWR eventually wears off due to dirt, oils, and abrasion, it’s important to frequently clean and reapply DWR on waterproof clothing. Otherwise, the fabric can become saturated, reducing breathability and leaving you wet and cold. 

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The next layer is a waterproof membrane that acts as a protective barrier to prevent moisture from penetrating the inner layers. A waterproof membrane can be applied either as a laminate or as a coating. In a laminate, a separate membrane is bonded to the fabric, similar to how wallpaper is applied to a wall, where the liquid film coatings are spread onto the fabric. In addition, waterproof membranes can either be hydrophobic or hydrophilic. Hydrophobic membranes repel water while letting gas molecules pass through, keeping you dry while also allowing sweat to escape. Hydrophilic membranes also block outside water, but they absorb sweat vapor from the inside and move it through the membrane to the outside to evaporate. 

Once these components are added, they are built into different types of layered systems that vary in durability, comfort, and protection. 2-Layer construction is typically found on casual and less technical gear, and consists of a waterproof membrane bonded to the outer fabric with a separate liner on the inside to protect the membrane from sweat and wear. Jackets with 2-Layer construction are typically soft and comfortable, but may be heavier or bulkier because of the extra lining. Contrastingly, 2.5-Layer jackets replace the full lining with a thin protective “half layer” that is usually painted or sprayed. This makes 2.5-Layer jackets more lightweight and breathable, but less durable and protective. Lastly, 3-Layer construction bonds the outer fabric, waterproof membrane, and inner lining into one piece of material. Because the layers are all tightly joined together, 3-Layer construction is the strongest and most durable, making it suitable for harsh outdoor conditions. However, 3-Layer jackets can also feel stiffer and are much more expensive than 2-Layer and 2.5-Layer jackets.

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Waterproof clothing is created using strategic design, advanced materials, and close attention to detail. Each component, from the waterproof membrane to the DWR finish, is crucial to keeping you warm, comfortable, and dry. Exploring the process of how waterproof clothing is made is not only helpful for choosing the right gear to buy, but also shows how much innovation goes into something as simple as a rain jacket.

Citations:

The Ultimate Guide to Waterproof Breathable Fabrics. EVent Fabrics. https://eventfabrics.com/the-

Rainwear: Durable Water Repellent (DWR) Care. (n.d.). REI. https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-

Hydrophilic vs. Hydrophobic: What’s The Difference and How To Select. (2024). Saint-Gobain.com.

https://www.medical.saint-gobain.com/resources/blog/hydrophilic-vs-hydrophobic-whats-

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